Italian Renaissance: the Launch of Lofficiel Italia and the Revival of Flair

Italy has been the theater of various changes these last few months, especially this fall. Not much the shows in Milan, the season looked rather "classical" for the italian capital. The real news came first from the modeling agencies side, with the launch of two young projects, Monster Management and Pop Models, both bearing a more conceptual look compared to the already existing players. Even more recent are the debuts of L'Officiel Italia and the relaunch of Flair Magazine with a completely revamped masthead and a more artistic orientation. Below is a double portrait of the new fashion press in Italy.
Many fashion enthusiastics were deeply disappointed when Amica, one of the most original publications in Europe, changed its look and target, going from a creative approach of fashion photography to mainstream and commercial contents that failed to excite the eye of the aesthetes. Amica wasn't alone to cross this line and choose a "safer" (somehow) way. The same can be said of Emmanuelle Alt's vision of Vogue Paris as Editor in Chief and some similar evolutions could be spotted here and there in Europe, North America, Asia... But things are slightly changing, other voices start to be heard again, the wind is blowing from another side.
First with the launch of L'Officiel Italia. The little sister-publication of L'Officiel Paris went for a very intriguing choice of cover for its debut issue. Instead of the usual über-retouched, mega-glossy and sometimes painfully tacky photograph covered with an overload of cheesy text, this first cover features an illustration by David Downton. Slightly retro in its mood, bright yet minimalist, the aesthetic of L'Officiel begs to differ from most of the popular visuals of the moment.
Quite on the same page is the new version of Flair, directly inspired by the original Flair magazine of the fifties. A pregnant Mariacarla Boscono by Jürgen Teller on the cover sets the tune, quite immediately, and you understand the new aims go slightly further than "just" fashion and clothes especially. Photography, literature, culture, art in general - the themes are broader and bring some extra diversity next to all these magazines that limit their topics to the best items of the season of the new generation of top models.
For all those, like me, who have felt desperate about fashion publications losing their soul and spirit lately, these two from Italy are definitely a good signal that an alternative is still possible nowadays despite the global economic issues and the cowardice of most publishing houses.
CREDITS: L'Officiel Italia, illustration by David Downton / Flair, Ph: Jürgen Teller.

 

TALES OF DIGITAL AGE: PRESS AND PAPER (Part One)

"Everybody understands that digital is the future and the present." These are not my own words but Baba Shetty's, newly appointed CEO of Newsweek, when he announced that the last printed issue of the world famous magazine will be relased this december. No later, then it's going to be all digital. Many in fashion would probably share Mr Shetty's point of view and visions, though the news from the small yet global universe of luxury are quite contradictory on that matter, with consequences that affect magazines, models, agencies and other players. The first three are, of course, the ones I'm interested in and the subject of this article in two parts. A first one dedicated to the current evolution of fashion press and a second short story on what to expect for models and their management.
I caught myself writing about the launch (or relaunch) of two italian magazines last week and both had some obviously retro vibes surrounding them. Flair's new look is directly inspired by the historical Flair magazine from the fifties while the newly released L'Officiel Italia featured an illustration on the cover. Not really living proofs of the digital age we're living in yet both are symptomatic of the evolution of fashion magazines in general, high-end ones more specifically.
We already had Grey Magazine, started a few years ago, that redesigned the look and function of the magazine as a collection of images and a beautiful object. Instead of the usual glossy look, Grey contains (almost) no advertisement inside and presents itself as a "real" book with a thick, rigid cover that you wouldn't be ashamed to put next to any other art book from your personal library at home. And the contents are just the way you expect them looking at the outside: fully dedicated to fashion photography, fine styling, portraits etc. No trace of the typical fashion stories you would find in Vogue, Elle or... everywhere online, these days.
Another recent move that follows a similar pattern is Carine Roitfeld's latest project. The title itself says it all: CR Fashion Book. Calling her magazine a book isn't innocent at all, as the vocable "book" still refers to an object you can hold in your hands while "magazine" can mean all and everything going from the monthly glossy sold in stores to the latest online page showcasing editorials, ad campaigns and other features you usually associate with the word "magazine".
Whether Carine's project is a book or not isn't the heart of the issue, the main idea behind this sophisticated title is clearly the difference of branding it brings. Book spells luxe and makes the item less casual, separates it from the masses and bears a timeless meaning. I don't think anyone is likely to launch a regular monthly printed magazine today but there is certainly a significant niche market for publications that are released two, three or four times a year and packaged as luxury objects you want to keep for a long time in opposition to the fast-paced online press or the good-old glossies you used to read and throw.
The last years have witnessed the birth (and, sometimes, the raise) of more artistic or alternative printed magazines, primarily focusing on high-end or experimental photography, collaborations with artists that aren't systematically connected to fashion and written contents.
If this seems to be the present of fashion magazines, the recent past was quite different. Not so long ago, not even half a decade ago, a young magazine from Ukraine called Playing Fashion made its debuts online and involved mostly local contributors. The perception of online magazines by the public wasn't totally the same as today and not being printed often meant belonging to second tier publications. After putting much efforts to develop their project, the young team behind Playing Fashion managed to step from its initial virtual form to gigantic leaves of glossy paper. And the move was seen as a major improvement in terms of prestige and audience.
But the fairytale didn't last: Playing Fashion stopped being printed this spring. The fantastic journey started by a few ukrainian youngsters is over and this doesn't leave much hopes left for hypothetical upcoming monthly printed magazines. Meanwhile, if Conde Nast and others have no plans yet to stop printing their Vogues and co., none of those famous titles could survive without an online presence besides their monthly release in bookstores.
I could go on with more examples of the influence of digital media on fashion press but I guess the point is pretty clear. Furthermore, magazines are the top of the iceberg, the most obvious part of the business where this influence can be seen or felt. What remains harder to perceive is how it has also affected the modeling side on various fronts, how it has changed the career prospects for the girls and the working habits of their managers - the theme of this article's upcoming part two.
CREDITS: CR Fashion Book, Kate Upton and Audrey Harrelson by Bruce Weber / Playing Fashion, Erin O'Connor by Jeon Seung Hwan / GREY Magazine, Bianca Balti by Manuela Pavesi, styled by Moreno Galata.

 

Vogue Turkey Dares To Differ

You can say a new fashion market is getting mature once a city or country launches its own edition of Vogue and manages to offer juicy commercial opportunities to the models staying in town. Lately, a lot of new places around the world have set themselves as reliable fashion destinations and, among this growing number, Turkey and especially Istanbul have a good rank on the list. This being said, these emerging markets are often considered as not really open to a subersive, controversial or even inventive imagery.
Asia might be the perfect example of this trend when you take a glimpse at the countless Vogue, Numéro and others that have popped up in asian countries and look much less daring or creative than most of their european counterparts. Vogue Turkey, though, has just released its latest issue and the cover alone should be able to change our percpetion of magazines from rising fashion markets. And the message is clear: creativity can be everywhere as long as someone is ready to get involved and push the boundaries.
Not so long ago, Turkey wasn't a common place for models to fly and Istanbul unlike Tokyo or Singapore didn't attract many mother agents as a suitable destination for the development of their new faces' portfolio or as a source of income for allround commercial models. Within the last couple of years, the situation has changed, dramatically. And now, with the profusion of quality magazines published in Turkey, the country has earned its place among the locations that matter, fashion wise. The launch of a turkish edition Vogue is certainly the most obvious symbol of that stylish revolution that took place there and the magazine has built its reputation with covers featuring models of the caliber of Natasha Poly, Lara Stone, Laetitia Casta or Karolina Kurkova (for this year alone). That should already be enough to consider Vogue Turkey as one of the main editions of the title worldwide, at least among the "new generation" of Vogues, but the most recent issue places the bar one step higher again, thank to a genuinely inventive and daring cover.
You had to scratch your eyes to believe it at first sight but this is it, this Vogue cover looks like everything but a Vogue cover. In the very best possible way. While many of the other editions don't seem to do much efforts to renew the genre, Vogue Turkey's november issue steps far away from the usual and overused pattern. No glam, no gloss, no gossip girl on the cover yet a highly inventive and refreshing visual featuring the artwork of Taner Ceylan. And instead of the countless lines of text that often pollute a big magazine's cover, just a few birds flying around and between the V and the O and the G and the U and the E. Indeed, this is the Art issue and no seasonal shopping theme. But, then, how many famous publications release some Art issues that are, in reality, just some artsy remakes of their most generic covers? You would have to dig a good one of Dazed and Confused to find something bearing a similar relevance.
While many of the international editions of Vogue are proposing to their readers the same old soup, over and over again, and their newborn siblings such as Vogue Netherlands fail to place themselves as alternative to mainstream titles like Marie-Claire, the concept of this new Vogue Turkey issue (with no model, no celeb, no cheesy headlines) is rocking the boat right in time to let us question ourselves why some of the major players are just resting on their laurels.

THE REVENGE OF THE INDIES: HOW ALTERNATIVE MAGAZINES KEEP CREATIVITY ALIVE

 

Vogue is quite often criticized, or even attacked, by some sharp and witty readers and other magazine-lovers yet their sales keep their standards as high as -or higher than- before. Meanwhile the best-known fashion publication is more and more compared to the likes of Elle and Marie-Claire, another breed of magazines is spreading its wings trying to touch the sky.
Those we call indie mags have never been so popular in spite of the challenges printed press is currently facing. Quality, creativity and originality are the key-words for these alternative glossies that are praised by the critical and picky buyers while top-notch contributors are making the headlines on their covers. If some have been around for years already, some youngers are bringing new blood to the editorial scene.
It's no longer just about Dazed & Confused or i-D, not even just 10 Magazine, V Mag or POP. The phenomenon isn't new but its impact is significantly deeper. There has always been numerous magazines that aim to offer an alternative to Vogue and the other mainstream franchises. Some of them appeared just to disappear soon after their launch... Easy come, easy go and even easy resurrect sounded like the daily routine of these independent fashion publications and quite a bunch were more experimental than anything else (which isn't bad at all in itself).
What has changed is their popularity and the kind of contributors they attract. Count on big names of photography to deliver some different visuals than what all the Meisel, Testino and Mert & Marcus of this world are currently producing. Raw, raunchy or refined, the contents of magazines like Acne Paper, Antidote, Grey or Intermission is rich and diverse, and generally beg to differ from the overretouched and saturated glamour that dominates the mass-appealing magazines.
It's not only a matter of image and aesthetic, it's also a question of visibility and audience (sales, somehow). French magazine Double used to be quite unknown and underground not so long ago and, apart from our national bookstores, I had never seen it abroad while travelling. Today, the same Double is available overseas and has been warmly welcomed in New York City. Another sign of the times is Corduroy Magazine's multiple covers for its latest issue, featuring models ranging from Alek Wek and Angela Lindvall to Erin O'Connor and Eva Herzigova. Not a small line-up and even less an anonymous one. On the same note, Centrefold Magazine has recently created its own hype by having no other than Kate Moss (by the always-inspired Venetia Scott) on its cover and Cindy Crawford in one of its main editorials.
Next to these two that look already steaming hot, newer mags hiring younger talents are also getting their slice of spotlights: USED Magazine might be the best example, collaborating with up-and-coming photographers like Greta Ilieva and avant-garde editorial models like Ehren Dorsey or Erika Linder (not the typical runway gazelles with sixty shows a season yet some of the best in print of their generation). HUSK Magazine apparently follows a similar pattern with its recent release and Balenciaga's darling Julier Bugge gracing the cover. Add to the list some others like Intermission, Antidote, Lula or Doingbird - all remaining true to their aesthetics and readers while strengthening their position in the fashion magazine landscape.
All in all, this profusion of magazines gives the readers a diversified offer that have rarely reached a similar peak and is completed by various quality online publications displaying a variety of contents that fits to different types of eyes. Whether this situation is made to last (remember fashion doesn't often embrace long-lasting waves) or is fated to fade isn't today's issue.
The single fact it's all bubbling and buzzing at the moment can already be understood as promising sign that fashion photography hasn't stopped evolving and renewing itself, and magazines are moving along. No matter what the future has in store for all of them, they have the merit to exist and contribute actively to maintain (at least) a certain level of creativity in a fashion business that seems more and more governed by economic requirements.
CREDITS: Double Magazine by Walter Pfeiffer / USED Magazine by Greta Ilieva / Intermission Magazine by Patrik Sehlstedt / HUSK Magazine by Willem Jaspert / Centrefold Magazine by Venetia Scott / Corduroy Magazine by Peter Ash Lee.

 

 

Erotic Massage

Getting prepared
A massage should be a pleasant, sensual experience and there many things that can be done to ensure that it is so.
Firstly, you definitely do not want to be interrupted, so lock all your doors and unplug the phones.
The next thing you need to know is that a good massage is not a quick massage. Be prepared to spend some time with your partner, and do your best to set the mood. Dim the lights, have a good massage area (couches are lame), light up some candles, make sure the room temperature and your hands are warm (not too hot), and soft relaxing music is never a bad touch (make sure it is something your partner will like though).

Have your partner shower or bathe to relax and clean himself or herself.

Nice touches are aromas a sprinkle of rose petals over the bed anything that will help set the mood.

Getting Started
Your goal in a massage is to put your partner in a state of relaxation; if you are scared or worried, it is very easy to read from your body language.

Start slowly, be sensitive to your partners response and adapt your technique accordingly; while great massages are not the easiest to give, it is also difficult to give a bad one if you keep this rule in mind.
Rub some massage oil or cream in your hands to get it warm, and then go to work. We at sexinfo101 would like to suggest getting unscented oils for massage. Scented oils sound great, and for that matter smell great too, but their scents are often overpowering. At least experiment with small samples before spending big bucks on something you might only use once.

The whole concept of massage is built around being touched, so try to keep constant contact with your partner. As you explore their body, try to do it in a continuous way to help keep your flow going, as well as to increase the intimacy level. If you are learning for the first time, or learning to please a new partner, don't forget to communicate. You don't necessarily have to ask if every motion you try feels good, but don't be afraid to ask if they want something harder or softer, and make sure to listen to your partner's breathing, it is an excellent indication of how you are doing. Try to keep your movements rhythmic, even, and symmetric when starting out. This will allow your partner to understand what is going on, and relax even more. As you get more experience, you will learn tricks and combo moves to improve your abilities.

Where should you start the massage? Well, there is no one place to begin. Virtually every part of the body (at least the areas that you are allowed to touch) is fair game. Some spots are better then others, and those are usually the ones that allow you to traverse your partners whole body continuously, but there is nothing wrong with hitting the best areas more than once (refer to erogenous zones in the pleasing women and men sections) as long as you dont dwell too intensely on more sensitive areas.

Starting with the feet and moving up is one way to go about it another is starting at the head and working your way down. We want to reiterate, there is no one way of doing massage, so start wherever you are comfortable ... just keep experimenting. A suggestion for first timers would be to start at the soldiers, then go to the neck, scalp, run your fingers down to his or her shoulders, arms, upper back, lower back, buttocks, thighs, calves, and then feet; then flip him or her over and work back up. Some areas are better massaged softly, others are better if they are massaged deeper, so start trying! As you gain experience, the whole process will become second nature.

How to use your hands
Again, there is no right or wrong way! We have found that using your finger tips softly in softer and more sensitive areas, and using your full hand, especially your thumbs, works wonders on large, commonly sore, muscle areas like the outer thighs and shoulders. If you are ever unsure, start softly and progressively massage deeper carefully monitoring your partner's breathing. It won't take long until your partner thinks you are a professional.

Some people enjoy being scratched (lightly is recommended), others enjoy being licked, some prefer little circular movements, others enjoy hard deep massages, and yet others want them all. Besides giving ideas, we are unable to give you a road map to your partner's body, as every person is different and enjoys different stimulation. This article will be extended in the near future to include some "hitting strokes", and don't forget to check the pleasing men and women sections to find ways to please each area of your partner's body.

The best advice that we can give you is this "know your partners body". It is the people who know their partner's bodies the best, who are usually remembered to be the best lovers!

Ten Tips For Better Sex

Make it unexpected.
Nothing takes away the monotony in a relationship like the unexpected! The next time you're not doing anything, initiate a little sex play.

Add ambiance to your love nest.
The next time you plan on making love, light a few candles, spray a light scented fragrance and a put on some soft music. Ambiance can heighten just about any romantic situation.

Make love in a new place.
Add a bit of excitement and newness to your sex life by making love in a new place! Rent a hotel room, try a different room, make love in public... the possibilities are endless.
Wear comfortable, but sexy lingerie.
In order to feel sexy, you need to look it AND be comfortable. If you are uncomfortable with any part of your body, find lingerie that hides it or greatly compliments another feature. Confidence is a great aphrodisiac and is easier to attain in the bedroom when you look great!

Think about what your partner would like.
To add a new level to your lovemaking, take your time pleasuring your partner. Add heightened interest by letting them know what you are doing. Speak romantically during the entire session as well.

Women, concentrate on only what you want.
Believe it or not, one of a man's biggest turn ons is a woman turning on herself. The next time you make love to your partner, only do things that pleasure you. Just like in the above tip, the key is in letting him know that is what you are doing.

Without speaking, take your partner and make love to them.
Silence can be an exhilarating turn on. This idea is especially effective when you do this as soon as your partner comes home.

Don't hold back your emotions.
Be free to express yourself and your feelings when you make love. Voice how you're feeling and don't be too shy to do whatever you feel like doing.

Try using something new like ice or toys.
While sex is great without any enhancements, it can definitely be worthwhile to try a few new things. A few ideas range from blindfolds, ice, toys, movies, etc.

Torment your partner with at least an hour of foreplay.
Better yet, drag it out throughout the entire day. Suspense is a wonderful aphrodisiac and can greatly enhance your love making.

Communication, Great-SEX Style

Sexual criticism and discussing sexual requests may be two of the most arduous tasks in a relationship. Who wants to hear that they are a poor kisser or that your partner is unhappy with your sex life? Remember to treat your partner as YOU would like to be treated and with the utmost respect, even if you disagree with their stance. Beginning the discussion can be quite nerve-racking. Feel the acid churning in your stomach yet? Let's prepare the atmosphere just right. First of all, don't criticize in public or in front of others. Save the details for a time and place when you can be alone and undisturbed. Secondly, before you begin, analyze your intentions if you wish to express a criticism. What is your motivation? Are you frustrated with the situation and want to get back at your partner, or do you sincerely wish to make the sexual climate hotter?

Once you have the right mindset and are sure of your intentions, begin by acknowledging the difficulty of the task at hand. Say something like, "I find it hard to talk about this and would appreciate your help and understanding. Do you have time to talk?" This question accomplishes several things: you've expressed concern and apprehension, thereby gaining your partner's attention, sensitivity, and perhaps sympathy. The point is that your partner will not be defensive. Plus, you've asked permission to broach the discussion, so he/she feels immediately involved.

If you are the one on the receiving end, truly open yourself up to hearing your partner. DON'T become defensive. This is a choice. You can choose to be receptive and actively listen. Practice positive body language so your partner feels comfortable and provide feedback so he/she knows you are listening and that you want to rectify the situation. Paraphrase what your partner has expressed to make sure you are both on the same page. When in doubt, use positive reinforcement and make sure to provide feedback. Don't be afraid to ask specifics as to what you should do or how you can make the situation better.

Be specific when expressing criticism and don't bring up the past. If you have supposedly dealt with past issues, let them go and only deal with the here and now. If you want more foreplay, don't say, "You're selfish and only think about needs in the bedroom." Obviously, this will have negative repurcussions. Instead, try the following "I" statement or something similar: "I really enjoy it when we touch and kiss before making love, and it upsets me that you don't seem to care about my sexual satisfaction." Notice the word "seem". You aren't making exact accusations, but expressing your interpretations and perspective. Then you can have an open, positive dialogue.

When you are in the middle of being intimate, try positive reinforcement. Say things like, "I love it when you caress my nipples like that" or "I love it when you kiss my neck." Those type of "I" statements work much better than "You piss me off because we don't do foreplay any more." Yikes! Remember to begin the sentence with "I" to take responsibility of the statement and not place blame. Placing blame is counterproductive and may cause your partner to become defensive. While making love, take your partner's hand and move it the way you especially like. Directing your partner's hand is more effective than saying "You don't touch me right. Don't you know what I like by now?" Double yikes! Need I remind you to treat each other with respect?

Remember that you are in this together. Use your feelings for one another as motivation to better the situation, not as weapons. You both want a happy, fulfilling sex life, and it won't happen if only ONE of you tries to vary the routine. Work together. Communication is vital in any relationship, but when it comes to matters of sex, egos flare and feelings get hurt VERY quickly. Proceed with caution and remember the relationship is worth the effort. If you have a way of communication that especially works for your relationship, share the wealth! We can always benefit from more wisdom! Don't forget to send comments or questions for readers. I look forward to an interesting reader comments issue this week! As always, I remain...